Awaiting the storm – Is Arutas Beach, Sardinia, Italy

This morning, we were low on breakfast provisions, so I did the 3 mile round walk to the Eurospar whilst Kevin was out at the beach with the dogs. I had tried the little village store in Bosa Marina where we are staying, I went through the beaded curtain into the store to see a old thin guy sat in the semi dark behind the counter. Inside there was a two rooms packed to the ceiling and even a deli counter with fresh meat fridge, however, I doubted, based on throughput how fresh it could be. Also, there was only one light on in the shop by the counter, the man suddenly appeared at my elbow and I assume asked me what I was looking for. I tried “fruitas” in Italian but he looked at me blankly. So I resorted to banana on google translate and he grunted as if to say what on earth are you eating those for on Sardinia. Later, after my long walk I could see he had a point.

After breakfast it was time to move on. Although we have not once had to pay for parking since we got to Sardinia (partly because we are out of season). However, there is a lack of access to services such as fresh water and grey and black water emptying, even many of the public toilets are locked. We could have filled up the water at a roadside fountain for example, which several people have used, but we like to filter our water because we drink water from the tank, we opted not to. However, in Bosa, there is an enterprising guy with a carwash who has set up a service point for motorhomes. It was €10 for black water, grey water and fresh water fill, which is to be honest pretty steep, but as we have not paid for parking so far it was worth it for us. We have now fully filled up with fresh water and that will keep us going for quite a while.

We drove out of Bosa only to see the perfect view / photo of the lovely coloured buildings below the castle which we had seen on all the guides coming here. We didn’t quite capture it yesterday but now we were driving and we had nowhere the stop. We have not yet reached Italian driving status which apparently allows for stopping in the middle of the road to drop off passengers and parking within three paces of anywhere you wish to visit whether that be in the middle of a road junction, traffic lights etc. However, I did my best out of the window as we drove to get the picture.

Not quite the perfect shot of Bosa, taken through the window of a moving motorhome

So onwards today to another wild camp by one of the reputedly best beaches on Sardinia (although there seem to be a few fighting for that title). The scenery continued to be small, barely cultivated fields or wild mountainsides, few buildings and occasional flocks of sheep. Villages were mostly built on the tops of hills with prominent churches at the tallest point. We passed three stray dogs, one wondering along the road and two lying together in the sun in the middle of the road cleaning themselves. They barely looked as we and the car following us swerved to avoid them. They looked fairly well fed though and we have found in several places that well kept dogs with collars etc seem to wander freely around villages.

We followed our sat-nav up over the hills, through some sometimes worryingly small village roads and eventually onto a track where we ran out of tarmac completely. Now, there is some very rough road surfaces on the island but usually there is some tarmac between the holes. We were happy enough being in a 4×4, however, a little further along the track was blocked by a tractor clearly busy at work, obviously not in a hurry to let us by. We were near somewhere handy to turn round and had found another slightly long route by road instead, so doubled back.

Tarmac optional, apparently a legitimate road in Sardinia according to our sat-nav and Google maps

We have pulled up on the nearly empty beach car park, there are three other motorhomes / camper vans. A closed restaurant and no other building for miles. It really is not over developed in Sardinia. One of the only structures we can see is a mobile phone mast and we have a full 5G signal!

Is Arutas Beach

We are however expecting thunder and lightening and heavy rains this afternoon, so after a quick beach walk we are tucked up in the van watching the clouds darken. We have however, got some frozen swordfish steaks and some local wines from the vineyard near Alghero so we shall manage 😁😋

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