Medieval Beauty – Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

It was 0 degrees C when we took out Lizzy and Lola for their morning ablutions this morning. The grass in the field was crisp with frost, not that they seemed to mind as we ssshed their play fighting enthusiasm as everyone else was trying to sleep. It was still super cozy in Clouline though as we headed back for breakfast.

We were soon on the road for another epic 35 minute trip up the Romantic Road to Rothenburg ob der Tauber (translating as on the Tauber river). There are three Stellplatz here, we chose one close to the town and easily navigated there. After 10 years in Cornwall, it is such a relief that even minor roads are twice the size of the major roads back home and Clouline is easily able to travel wherever we want to go.

The Stellplatz was pretty busy, even in October, the 8 electric points all occupied with people waiting to move on, vans sprawling out into parking areas beyond. Heaven knows what the summer must be like locally. We pulled into a reasonable spot in the parking area, needing to use our hydraulic legs to get level. We will be on LPG for heating and fridge here, relying on our solar panels to keep the batteries topped up for lighting etc.

As soon as we set up, we literally crossed the road to enter Rothenburg via one of the town gates a beautifully preserved stone gatehouse, opening into a circular Tudor style wooden frame semi-circular building inside the gate. Stepping through the next archway you enter a spectacular cobbled street of colourful medieval houses. We have so enjoyed the towns we have visited so far on the Romantic road, but this was yet another step up. We had taken a dozen photos within the first 50m of walking and there just seemed to be more to see and wonder at round every corner. Lots of lovely independent shops with ornate gold leaf signs. Every building well maintained with flourishing flower boxes and immaculate coloured paint schemes.

We saw through an alley a beautiful view of the countryside which looked intriguing and went to investigate. We were rewarded with views over the town walls to the valley beyond, with grapes vines on the terraces and the river Tauber winding through the valley below.

We wondered into the main Marktplatz square dominated by the stone front column / arched facade of the market hall. We wondered why everyone was congregating there and looking up at the immaculate 1700’s building on the northern side. A moment or two later we realised when the bells chimed for 11am and the little windows opened to reveal a man drinking a beer and another lifting a staff automated like a cuckoo clock. We wandered round the corner to the Jakobskirche (church) outside of which was a beautiful brass model of the town. So we plotted a route around the walls, arriving back into the square just before lunch. We managed to get one of the last tables in the full sunshine outside a lovely medieval tavern.

We enjoyed some fabulous German cuisine in the full heat of the midday sun, soon stripping off our outer thermal layers. We could not believe we are lucky enough to get weather like this in mid October. Great to watch the world go by, Lizzy and Lola sprawled out sunbathing. As we finished our lunch, a busker starts to set up alongside the tables. He turns out to be a harpist and starts to plays some beautiful music, including the ultimate medieval hit of Greensleeves. Another perfect day.

Back to Clouline to watch Bath v Saracens, though as a Bath fan I am not optimistic from our start to the season, but I stay faithful!

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