So, we did not manage to venture far last night. We decided to eat in the van watching the rain come down in stair rods bouncing back off the tarmac. It did relent briefly from biblical to torrential so we made a run for it to the bar 50 yards away. Where we settled for a fabulous frizzante wine made in the vineyard we passed coming into town called Lobster instead of the real thing for tonight🦞. It is called the ‘Sister’s Café” and clearly the sister of the lady who served us lunch had come in for the evening shift. There was a gathering of Italian locals which inevitably meant a loud and garrulous backdrop to our evening.
Overnight, the wind whistled and the van shook. We were happy once more we were not in a boat. We were awake before daylight and the rain started to ease. It is quite a busy little spot where we are parked and we have enjoyed just watching the world go by from the warmth and comfort inside. It was especially busy though this morning as the majority of traffic on the main coast road through town in front of us seemed to be diverting through the carpark, including buses etc. When we saw the first cars attempt the road we saw why, as the flooded road sprayed over their headlights.
We checked the BBC weather app to see what the rest of the day ahead looked like. We have always found it is a degree or two under the actual temperature on the forecast outside the UK, but today the “moderate wind” forecast was the master of understatement for the storm raging outside. As the rain had abated we decided to go exploring for our morning dog walk. The wind was howling, Kevin helped to move some wheelie bins out of the road, then we passed a council worker sweeping leaves 😂. Valiant effort.
We had a lovely walk first road the port and the closed but immaculate fish market, where apparently every boat has its own stall, but no one had been out in this weather. We proceeded on around the cobbled streets of the walled old town, relieved at some respite from the wind, until we wondered out to the beautifully refurbished ramparts. The waves were crashing over the harbour walls and yachts in the marina were straining on their moorings. The bigger ones healing in the “moderate” wind.
We walked for over an hour but were too early for the shops etc to be open so we head back via a bakery for fresh bread for breakfast. The forecast was looking very wet again for this evening so we decided to time our lobster 🦞 expedition for lunch. We had selected the Nautilus restaurant on our patrol of the town, so settled down for a Italian lessons on Duolingo, slightly constrained yoga and exercises inside the van and fabulous cup of our last bag of Cornish fresh coffee. I know that sounds like bringing coals to Newcastle but it really is very good.
Lunchtime soon arrived and we tucked up the girls as the restaurant looked a little smart for us all to attend. Kevin had already selected his food from the menu outside and on the website before we arrived. However, we then chose a lovely sparkling local rosé wine and I selected my octopus, skate and then a shared lobster. We discussed with the waiter who thankfully spoke good English that we would normally call what they serve crayfish. Kevin had some photos on his phone from his own catches in his professional fishing days. Apparently they would actually call it spiny lobster, they do have what he called blue lobster in the Mediterranean too.
We are a bit confused by the starters, first course and second course of Italian menus, but decided to go with the flow. When we ordered the lobster he explained it would need to be for two and the price was per 100 grams. He then presented the live fish to us and agreed the price before he would arrange for it to be cooked. It was rather expensive, but we felt it was an experience we had to have while we were here. Apparently our dear departed Queen specially selected Aghero lobster for her wedding reception, one has to take a recommendation like that.
The food and service were exceptional. We are lovers of French cuisine, but had only been to Rome previously in Italy, where the food was excellent but we were not sure if it was a true reflection. Today’s lunch was magnificent though and has left us very excited for the rest of our Italian travels. The crayfish was perfectly cooked and we enjoyed the long slow, messy process of picking and eating. No room for dessert, but a lovely smooth Italian coffee to finish.
We are back in the van for a cup of tea now before we venture out for an afternoon dog walk around the shops etc in the old town hopefully before the rain starts. Tomorrow we plan to move on from Alghero, but we would definitely return. We discussed with the waiter at lunch the weather and the flooded road etc, he said it was always the same when the first rain comes after the summer, not bad if that does not happen until late November.